Friday, March 27, 2015

Layover Day at Hawkbill Cay and Foxtown


Day 28: Monday, March 23, 2015

It was a rough night.  The wind moved from the southwest to the west and continued to build throughout the night.  The boat rocked and bucked making sleep quite difficult. This location is not known for its good holding ground so I was up a number of times to make sure that we had not moved.  We leave the chartplotter on so that the “Anchor Drag Alarm” will alert us in case we move out of a preselected area.  It also marks a track so you can see where it has been.  It does use battery but on nights like last night you need it.

We fixed sausage gravy and served over flatbread.  Amazingly, the flatbread, like the tortillas, have not molded in the month that the have had them.

We basically sat most of the day.  We both read novels and did little else.  The wind finally began to back off at around 2:30 or so and at around 3:30, I mounted the motor onto the dinghy, loaded 5 little bags of trash and we headed over to Little Abaco Island and the little town of Foxtown.  The water was still rough but the little inflatable dinghy bobbed along with trouble.  We got splashed by big waves several times but the ¾ mile trip was uneventful.  We would have not been comfortable doing it in ole Damn Dink.
Rout into Foxtown and the Foxtown Dock

The route into the dock was relatively shallow and dotted with rock outcroppings.  The charts advise only the boats with the shallowest of draft attempt to make it, Of course, the dinghy had no trouble.  The dock was high and with the wind blowing, making the landing a bit tricky.  We got off of the boat, set out our little trash bags and were preparing to head to shore when a little very dark chunky Bahamian girl game to greet us.  Zianne was a talkative little 2nd grader who served as
Janine and our new friend, Zianna
the welcoming ambassador for the poor village of Foxtown.  We asked where we could drop our trash and in her out island dialect told us but we couldn’t understand. At the end of the dock we asked a young man the same question and he pointed to some large tubs nearby.  Little Zianna indignantly told me “I already told you that!” 

We also asked about groceries and they pointed to a little building across the street with no sign.  Went in and asked the rotund lady behind the counter if she had bread to which she replied “no” so I asked about eggs and she said, “In da cooler.”  There were very few food items on the shelves but what we did find was Betty Crocker Carrot Cake Mix.  We went back and paid the $7.50 for the two items and then headed across the street to the Da Valley Restaurant and Bar.  We walked in past a pool table and asked one of the 3 men standing around about dining and he pointed toward a room at the other side of the building.  We made our way into the main dining room where we were met by the owner, cook and waitress.  In very few words, she offered that we could sit outside on the deck that overlooks the water.  On our way out, Zianne, who had been shadowing our every move and talking incessantly, said that she would get the menus.  Out on the porch, she dropped the stack of one page menus which proceeded to blow down across the floor.  The owner, who was also quite heavy, came and took our
Foxtown Grocery
order for two COLD Kaliks.

The menu included various kinds of seafood and chicken dishes all of which were quite reasonably priced.  I orders cracked lobster which came with fries and coleslaw and Janine had blackened grouper.  Both meals were outstanding

Although the outside was well painted in pastel colors, the inside had plywood walls on which folks had signed and commented using markers.  Sitting at the bar were three very round ladies who were carrying on a very loud, animated discussion in a dialect that we couldn’t understand.

Da Valley Restaurant and Bar
Zianne had, on her verbal tour of the village, told us that the building next door was a fish building so I asked the restaurant owner about it and she said that her husband owned it and yes they had seafood for sale.  After the meal, I went inside to pay my bill and inquired of a man who was sitting, leaning up against the wall, if the fish house was his.  He confirmed it and said that he had various fish, lobsters, and stone crabs for sale.  We bought three large spiny lobster tails and a huge block of ice.  Janine was going to get cold beer tomorrow along with an onboard
Dining on the deck of Da Village Restaurant with a COLD beer.

lobster dinner.

The trip back to Second Wind was uneventful.  The winds and chop continued to diminish so the boat became less animated.  Not long after our return, we both noticed that the wind was again beginning to howl and the seas began to build again as the wind started clocking around to the north.  A fast moving squall will little rain passed through causing the boat to buck and rock again. Luckily, the rough weather lasted only a short while
Inside of Da Village Restaurant
and by the time we decided to go to bed, the winds had made it to the north and the water became calm.  It should be a much needed peaceful night.
Zianna working over a coconut.  She got it open and ate it all

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