Center Harbor to Bucks Harbor

Day 15: July 13, 2015

Last night was another peaceful night of sleep in a calm harbor.  We began the day with pancakes and coffee.  I spent some time working out a route to follow to our next destination.  We had run one of our two tanks of fuel dry and I don’t like be without a backup so the closest marina with gasoline is called Bucks Harbor Marine.  It is only 8 miles from Center Harbor so today will be a short day.

We pulled the anchor at about 8:00 and slowly motored out.  As we were passing a small cruiser, a gentleman hollered at us inquiring about how our night had been

And another beautiful hand made wooden boat

.  He assumed that, where we were anchored, we had drug  bottom.  I assured him that we drew only 18 inches of water and we had a great night.  He was amazed.

The water was still very smooth but we could feel a breeze so just outside of the harbor, we raised our sails and began moving at about 1.5 knots.  I assumed that the wind would pick up as the day developed, however, it was not to be.  It remained very light and quite variable all day.  It took us almost 8 hours to make the 8 miles.  

Since we were in no hurry, we continued to sail the entire way except one point where we came to a narrow pass under a long suspension bridge.  By the way, this

Bridge over the narrows in Eggemoggin Reach

large passage is called Eggemoggin Reach.  In these narrows, the tide was racing against us and, although at that time we had a breeze that was moving us along at over 3 knots, our speed decreased to about .5 knots and I had to start the motor to get on in.  Once through that area, we shut down the engine and continued on sailing.  Just outside of Buck Harbor, the wind died so we dropped the sails and motored on in.

In the narrow passages in Eggemoggin Reach the suspension bridge has a clearance in the center of 85 feet.  In 1996, when we were here cruising on the schooner Heritage as we passed under

Schooner Heritage Photo by Richard Leighton

the same bridge. They had to lower the top mast, an extension on the main mast, to get through.  Interestingly, the skipper’s wife and teenage daughter climbed the rigging to the top of the main mast to loosen the top mast so that the crew below could lower it.

 

This day, as the last several, was different than earlier ones that we have encountered earlier in the trip.   There was no stress that pushed us to make long miles. This truly beautiful country and it is a real pleasure to be traveling  through it. 

We pulled up to the dock and filled our gas tanks.  We should be set for

Heritage under sail  Photo by Richard Leighton

the remainder of the trip.  We also filled our water tank.  At this marina, water,  showers, laundry facilities and their dinghy dock are all available to you if you rent a mooring ball so we did.

At the dock office, live lobster was $10.00 per pound, the cheapest that I have seen, however we aren’t carrying a pot big enough to cook even one lobster so we had to pass up the opportunity.  They did, however, have cups of locally made ice cream so we both enjoyed some.  Of course we had to eat it before it melted so we had our dessert before we fixed our faux spaghetti and meatball dinner. 

 

Bucks Harbor Marine

While our dinner was being prepared, I took a load of laundry over and started it and checked out the showers.  They had two outdoor showers and one inside one.  I don’t understand the outdoor shower thing.  This is the second of these structures that I have seen. Here we are in the coldest part of the US and folks take showers in a stall out in the open air. We both took our showers in the inside one. 

During one trip back to the dock, I noticed a fellow rowing a small dinghy around the harbor and I decided to do the same.  The water was calm and rowing was quiet and peaceful. The fellow came along side and we had quite a lengthy conversation about both of our trips.  He is sailing a 1970 30 foot Erickson that he has beautifully maintained.  

And then sleep.