Marco Island to Everglades City

Day 8: March 7,  2013

I begin today’s notes where I ended yesterday’s; it was a rough night.  I was up several times checking our position.  The wind continued to blow hard until about the middle of the night when it moderated to about 10mph.  It also changed direction again, swinging around to the northeast.  The fetch remained the same so the waves continued to rock us.  Our faithful Danforth anchor held well so we really had no cause for alarm.  Nevertheless, it was not an easy night’s sleep.



Sausage gravy and biscuits was again the fair for the morning.  (We try to eat all of the meals that contained ground meat as early in the trip as possible, assuming that they will not keep as well as other types.) I typed my daily log and we prepared to head south for Everglades City. 



Our Destination - The Rod and Gun Club



The wind was still blowing as I pulled the boat up to where the anchor had sunken deeply into the mud.  With significant effort, I finally broke it free and we were underway.  Our first stop was at Rose Marina for ice.  While at the dock, I talked to a fellow who had a 43 foot Hunter and he recommended that we not go to Everglades City as there is not much there and it is a fairly long trek off the main path south.  I had read and heard stories about this old establishment and decided that I, in fact, wanted to see it. 

We traveled south through the shallow waters around Marco Island which is billed as the entry into the Everglades.  The numerous low mangrove-covered islands are named the Ten Thousand Islands.  We motored cautiously through the maze for about 10 miles before we broke out into the open water of the Gulf.  By now the wind had died and we motored on glassy smooth waters.  Here, the fetch was very short and so with no wing and no lingering waves, the ride was relaxingly easy.

The Grand Entrance

Around noon, I was treated to a Spam sandwich with Chex-mix on the side and butterscotch pudding cup for dessert.  Janine had her usual uncrustable PBJ. 

We were motoring along at about 5.5mph when I noticed that a following wind was blowing our telltales (yarn on the shrouds {wires that hold up the mast} that indicate wind direction) forward indicating that the wind was moving faster than we were so we put up the sails and began what turned out to be a wonderful afternoon of sailing.  Our initial speed was about 4.2 mph but by the end of the afternoon, the building wind was moving us along at up to 6.2mph (which is approaching the hull speed of the boat – that theoretical speed at which you can push this type of boat hull).  It was exciting. 

The Bed and Breakfast

Also as we sailed along, I decided to practice my celestial navigation skills so I took some sun sightings with my sextant and found that I was a number of miles (too many) away from where I actually was so I need to go back and practice my skills and work on my calculations.  I am not yet ready to head out for the far distance seas without my GPS to tell me where I am!

The Community Church

At around 3:00, while still under sail, we swung east past Indian Key heading for Everglades City which lies 3.5 nautical miles up narrow, well marked channels.  The final ½ mile is up the Barron River.  Once inside the channels, we lowered the sails and motored on to the Rod and Gun Club.  I called ahead asking for availability of transient slips and they said that they indeed had a number of openings and when we got there we found that they have a wall about 200 yards long with pilings to which you can tie for the night.  There were maybe two other boats moored so our options were wide open.  We opted to tie up directly in front of this stately old establishment.

City Hall

I could write an extremely long review of this neat old place.  It looks like it was snatched out of the 1920’s. It is extremely well maintained, all be it very underutilized.  It is dark inside with the walls covered with stuffed game of many species and the weapons used to collect them.  The cash register is an old steel contraption that the girl who waited on us had to reach around the back to trigger the release of the cash drawer.  But it has so very much personality.  I highly recommend a visit if you are ever in the area.  Dinner was served starting at 5:00 so we had about 45 minutes to walk around the town.

It is an interesting, well maintained place.  There are a number of historic buildings including the original bank that is now a bed and breakfast, the original community church that was built on land gifted by the local land baron who was responsible for much of the original wealth of the area.  He gave the land for the church provided that two conditions be met: the church had to be completed by as certain date, and it was and second, it had to be non-denominational and it is to this date.   They also are quite proud of their city hall which was devastated by hurricane Wilma several years ago and now sits completely and beautifully restored. 

Back at the Rod and Gun Club, we dined on the veranda on fried grouper, with conch fritters for an appetizer, and baked potatoes.  We were sad, however, that we were the only ones dining although two couples did come in for cocktails. 

Back on the boat, we both were quite tired and were in bed by shortly after 8:00.  It was a good day.